Method of making shoes



Oct. 29,1935.

L. F. WEBER METHOD OF MAKING SHOES! Filed May 22, 1933 Patented Oct. 29, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT GFFEQE 0;

2,018,822 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Lewis F. Weber, New Rochelle, N. Y., assignor to z United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson,

N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application May 22, 1933, Serial No. 672,175 12 Claims. ((112-142) This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and, in some aspects, more particularly to the manufacture of turn shoes. In the manufacture of turn shoes an upper and a sole member tionable ridges or projections remain in the inside of the finished shoe and that the temporary lasting fastenings be entirely removed from the shoe of the temporary fastenings, if permitted to remain in the shoe, would be likely to become a source of annoyance or injury to the wearer of the shoe.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an improvement in methods of making turn stains resulting from the use of such tacks.

In one aspect the invention consists in securing wrong side out the upper of a turn shoe temporarily in lasted relation to the sole by lasting fastenings inserted through the upper and a lip on the sole in locations above the plane of the central portion of the sole. In another aspect the invention consists in securing the upper temporarily in lasted relation to the sole by lasting fastemngs which are channel with an outside channel so formed as to provide an upstanding peripheral lip and an up- 20 per attaching shoulder which is located farther inwardly from the edge face of the sole than the nel is formed. opened to expose the upper attaching shoulder and to form an upstanding peripheral lip which overlies the shoulder and to which the upper is as illustrated herein, by lasting fastenwhich are in- 85 serted through the upper and the upstanding lip and are clinched on the back of the lip. In the inseaming operation as the upper is drawn der which is located farther inwardly from the edge face of the sole than the outer face of said'flu The outside channel is then lip. The outside channel is preferably formed by cutting the sole inwardly from its edge face to within a short distance of the end of the downwardly and outwardly inclined inside channel and then upwardly to form, before the lip turning operation, an unexposed upper attaching shoulder. The outside channel is opened to provide the shoe with an upstanding peripheral lip which serves :to receive the temporary lasting fastenings and which is later trimmed off below the fastenings to provide the sole with a plane flat tread surface.

A sole member having the construction above described may be employed with similar advantages as an insole for welt shoes particularly for welt shoes in which little or no filler is to be employed.

The invention will now be more particularly described by reference to the accompanying drawing and thereafter pointed out in the claims.

,In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an improved sole member for a shoe which may be employed in carrying out the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a cross-section on an enlarged scale of the sole member shown in Fig. 1 before the lip turning operation is performed;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2 but showing the location of the peripheral lip and upper attaching shoulder after the lip turning operation has been performed;

Fig. 4 is a view illustrating the stepof attaching the upper of a turn shoe to the peripheral lip on the sole in the side lasting operation;

Fig. 5 is a view in cross-section showing the shoe after the side lasting operation has been performed;

Fig. -6 is a view in cross-section showing the shoe after the upper has been secured permanently to thesole by a thread seam;

Fig.7 is a view incross-section showing the shoe after the inseam trimming operation has been performed;

Fig. 8 is a view partly in perspective and partly in cross-section showing the forepart of the shoe after the shoe has been turned and mounted on its second last; and i Fig. 9 is a view in cross-section of a Goodyear Welt shoe after the upper and welt have been secured to a sole member by stitching.

As illustrated in the drawing, the materials of the turn shoe comprise a sole i0 and an upper consisting of the usual upper leather l2 and lining M. The shoe materials are "assembled on a last 16 wrong side out after which the lasting operation is performed preferably first at the toe-end portion of the shoe then along the .sides of the shoe and finally at the heel end, the shoe herein shown being one of the sewed seat type. For the toe-end lasting operation it is contemplated that a combined pulling-over and toe lasting machine may be advantageously used of the type disclosed in Letters Patentof the United StatesNo. 1,280,613, granted on October 1, 1-918 upon an application of Orrell Ashton, in which the upper is first subjected to a lengthwise pull and then wiped inwardly over the sole around the toe end and secured in lasted position by tacks, the machine being so constructed that the tacks are driven without any substantial danger of penetrating entirely through the sole.

As shown particularly in Fig. 1 the sole I0 is provided with an inside channel Hi to receive the stitching 20 whereby the upper is secured permanently to the sole along the sides and around the shoe has been shaped ends of the shoe after the lasting operations have been performed. By reference to Figs. 2 and 3 it will be observed that the sole H3 in addition to the usual inside channel I8 is provided also for purposes of this invention with an upper attaching shoulder 22 and a lip 24 above said shoulder to which lipthe upper is secured in lasted relation to the sole along the sides of the forepart and shank portion of the shoe by temporary fastenings comprising as herein illustrated fine wire staples 26 which are inserted through the upper and the lip 2G in locations above the plane of the central portion of the sole. The upper attaching shoulder 22 and lip 2d are formed by providing the sole with an outside channel or slit '28 directed inwardly from the edge face of the sole in parallel relation to the outer face of the sole. The slit 28 extends inwardly to within a short distance of the end of the downwardly and outwardly inclined inside channel it and then upwardly toward that face of the sole in which the inside channel is formed in a plane parallel to the edge face of the sole to form the upper attaching shoulder 22. The sole member is thus provided with a uniform extension an upper attaching shoulder which serves accurately to locate the thread seam 20.

While so far as the present invention is concerned the lasting of the upper along the sides of the shoe may be performed in any known or suitable manner, in the commercial practice of the present invention, as herein illustrated, this operation will preferably be performed by a machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,796,451, granted March 17, 1931, upon an application of George Gcddu. In the use of such a machine the shoe is presented by the operator in engagement with a work rest 38 (Fig. l) provided with a finger 32 which is arranged to enter the inside channel 58 and to serve as a gage to assist the operator in positioning the shoe with the work engaging face of the work rest .38 in engagement with the inside face .of the lip .24. While the shoe is thus positioned the upper is pulled heightwise of the last and inwardly over the sole by a gripper 34 and is then pressed inwardly against the outer face of the lip 2 by .a staple guiding nozzle 35. After the upper has thus been pressed against the lip in a position opposite the work rest 39 the staple Z5 is driven through the upper and lip by a driver 33 and is clinched by the work rest which serves also as an anvil. It will be understood that in the side lasting operation the upper is worked successively in different locations along the sides of the shoe into lasted relation to the sole and is secured temporarily in lasted position in each location by the staple 2%. After the shoe has been lasted at the toe and the sides, the heel end of the upper may be and preferably is shaped to the heel end of the last and its marginal portion wiped inwardly over the feather of the sole and against the shoulder 2?. before the lasted upper is secured permanently to the sole in the subsequent inseaming operation in accordance with the method disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,737,727, granted Dec. 3, 1929 on an application of Herman Newmann. A machine adapted for use in practising the method disclosed in the above-mentioned Newmann patent is disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,770,976, granted July 22, 1930 on an application of Joseph Fausse. After the heel end of the to the heel end of the last the upper is secured permanently to the sole by the thread seam 20, which may be a hand sewed or feather and 25 "remaining manufacturing seam or one made by turn sewing machines of the usual types. The lasting tacks are then removed sole member with a plane flat surface free from projections or ridges, which surface in the finished shoe forms the inside surfacefor the foot of the wearer.

While the invention has been described with particular reference to the manufacture of turn shoes it will be recognized that, in some features, it is not thus limited but is applicable to the manuwhich the upper and welt are attached to facilitate the cement outsole attaching operation.

Referring to Fig. 9 the sole member of a Goodyear Welt shoe is indicated at 58, the upper at 52, the welt at 54, and the last at 56. The sole member is provided with an inside channel 58 to receive a tnread seam 63 and with an outside channel formed to provide an upper attaching shoulder 62 and a lip 64 to which the upper is secured in the lasting operation by staples 56. While the outside channel may be formed substantially the same as the channel 28 above described, if desired the shoulder 62 may be located different distances from the edge face of the sole to accommodate welts of diiferent Widths, and the thickness of the reduced marginal portion of the sole may vary to accommodate welts of diflerent thicknesses.

seam 69 the lip 64 is forced upwardly thereby raising the staples 66 and is also forced inwardly though a piece of fabric or the like may be located between the insole and outsole to prevent squeaking.

Having thus described the invention what I. claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling shoe ma- 15 terials wrong side out upon a last, said materials sole by fastenings inserted 29 through the upper and the lip, thereafter permanently securing the lasted upper to the sole by through the the surplus portion of the upper close to the 2,15-

side out upon a last, said ma- #9 der including the metallic fastenings, removing the last, and turning the shoe.

3. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes WhlCh consists in assembling shoe terialswrong side out upon a last, said materials turning the shoe.

5. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling shoe the edge face of terials comprising 4- materials wrong side out upon a last, said maan upper and a sole provided with a peripheral lip and an upper attaching shoulder located below said lip in a plane parallel to the plane of the edge face of the sole and farther inwardly from said edge face than the outer face of said lip, working different portions of the upper successively into lasted relation to the sole and securing each overworked portion temporarily in lasted position by staples inserted through the upper and said lip above the plane of the central portion of the sole with the legs of the staples clinched on the inner face of said lip, thereafter permanently securing the lasted upper to said shoulder by stitching, trimming off the lip and the surplus portion of the upper in the plane of the central portion of the sole thereby removing the staples, removing the last, and turning the shoe.

6. A new article of manufacture comprising an unattached sole member having an inside channel, an upper attaching shoulder extending around the periphery of the sole, and an upwardly extending lip overhanging said shoulder, said lip having a bottom face extending transversely of said shoulder.

7. A new article of manufacture comprising an unattached sole member provided with an inside channel and an outside channel formed to provide a lip adjacent to the outer edge of the sole, and an upper attaching shoulder located farther inwardly from the edge of the sole than the outer face of said lip and connected thereto by a transversely extending face.

8. A new article of manufacture comprising an unattached sole member having an inside channel and an outside channel formed to provide an upstanding peripheral lip adjacent to the sole and an upper attaching shoulder below said lp, said shoulder being formed on a portion of the sole undisturbed by the turning of the lip and located farther inwardly from said edge face than the outer face of said lip and in a plane parallel to said edge face.

9. A new article of manufacture comprising a sole member provided with an inside channel and an outside channel formed to provide a lip and an upper attaching shoulder which, before the lip turning operation, extends in a verse to the lip.

10. A new article of manufacture comprising a sole member having an inside channel and a slit formed in the margin of the sole, said slit extending inwardly from the edge face of the sole and having a portion extending upwardly toward the channeled face of the sole in parallel relation to said edge face to form an upper attaching shoulder which, before the lip turning operation, is unexposed.

11. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling shoe materials wrong side out upon a last, said materials comprising an upper and a sole, securing the upper to a temporary lasting element on the sole, permanently securing the upper to the sole, removing the temporary lasting element, and then removing the last and turning the shoe.

12. A new article of manufacture comprising a sole member having an inside channel and a slit formed in the margin of the sole, said slit having a straight portion extending inwardly from the edge face of the sole, and a portion extending transversely of said straight portion to form an upper attaching shoulder after the lip turning operation.

LEWIS F. WEBER.

direction trans- 

